Now, there are other considerations when sewing this enclosed seam, such as: You need to decide how wide you want your finished seam to be. (I know, the dark thread lets it down, but you wouldn’t have seen anything if I had sewn it with a matching thread!). Thanks Eve. Next, trim the outside edge of the seam to about 1/8 inch. In my example, 1cm is provided, but in commercial sewing patterns it can be as much as 15mm. I’ll then trim 2-3 mm away and then the second line will be 4mm away from the first stitched line. How wide you want the finished seam to be. If your seam allowance is too small on the second seam, the rough edges of the fabric could end up sticking out of the second seam on the finished side of your project. There you have it. This article has been viewed 174,495 times. It's a good idea to put pins in so they are perpendicular to your seam line, this way they won't stick you as you move the fabric along in the sewing machine and they will be easy to grab as you move your fabric in the sewing machine. A French seam is actually a method for making a double seam that is used to hide the rough edges of fabric. We use cookies to make wikiHow great. % of people told us that this article helped them. You should know, however, that sheer fabrics are by nature  more fragile and prone to damage. Trim the seam allowance down by several millimeters as dictated by your sewing pattern. Perhaps you want a very wide French seam and the seams will actually be on the outside of your garment as a ‘design feature’? The advantage of a French seam with chiffon or any other see-through fabric is that it won't fray, doesn't need overlocking, so you will get a more professional look, and it will be neat inside and out. You can’t beat them for sheer blouses. This article has been viewed 174,495 times. . Press the stitches to set them. I hope it was helpful, and that it helps you to feel more confident about using this beautiful seam finishing technique! How can I sew a French seam using my hands? How to sew mock french seam. Trim the seam allowance down so that what is left will fit within the final seam width amount. The step-by-step tutorial on sewing one further down was photographed using a sheer fabric for this reason! Remember to clip any threads and remove any remaining pins after sewing. 12.Mock French seam (1) This is a seam which can be used in place of french seam where a french seam may not be possible like in a curved seam line, for eg. You may need to adjust the amount of seam allowance you have before cutting out your pattern. We know ads can be annoying, but they’re what allow us to make all of wikiHow available for free. Keep in mind, your actual finished seam allowance will be 5/8 inch. The answer is the thinnest possible and with a thread of the same colour. Discover (and save!) ", "The video tutorial was very helpful and the teacher gave simple instructions.". X Place wrong sides of fabric together and pin in place. What if your seam allowance is 15 mm and you want a finished seam of just 5 mm? Felled seams are great for medium- and heavy-weight fabrics, where a French seam would look too bulky and unprofessional. This article taught me how to do, "It helped me with my project in home economics, I was able to adjust my jeans and passed my exam! (See this tutorial on. Now the French seam stitch as well. This article is great! My project was one of the best. So much prefer a French seam. Sew with a thread that matches your fabric – I am using a contrasting thread so that you can see what I’m doing in each of the photos! Open the fabric so that it lays flat, then fold it over so that the right sides of the fabric are facing each other. Follow a few simple directions and you will be able to easily sew a French seam on your own. The steps are exactly the same for non-sheer fabrics, but be sure to choose a light- to medium-weight fabric! I promise! You wanna know how to sew a French seam, so let’s crack on with it! We’ll cover French seam uses, some advantages and disadvantages of using a French seam, as well as an actual sewing tutorial on how to sew a French seam. Sew the second line of stitches, enclosing the remainder of the seam allowance. This is tricky in the organza I am using, as you can see from the photos below! Just follow the above procedures, but using a thread and needle and not a sewing machine. Include your email address to get a message when this question is answered. These heavier weight fabrics just look cumbersome when French seams are used, as there is too much bulk contained within the enclosed seam. In this tutorial, I’m using a sheer organza fabric so I will go for a 4 mm finished seam so that it looks neat and hidden. The use of a French seam is not restricted to any particular clothing style or type. French seams are amazingly strong, so they're great… Then, press the seam open to get a nice crisp finish. Your first sewn line will have a 2 cm seam allowance. It is a technique that makes the seams of your handmade garment strong, neat, and professional looking, even replacing the need for a serger in some cases. If you are following along sewing a French seam on sheer fabric, you may be wondering which size needle you should use for sewing sheers. These fold lines are again pressed, the two pieces brought together and the folded edges edge-stitched together, enclosing all of the inside seam allowances. Stay tuned for that! You could also use your initiative for measuring the seam allowance if you don't have a tape. Patterns usually give a specific amount of seam allowance to use, so that your finished project doesn't turn out too bit or too small. So let’s get some FAQs about French seams out the way first! We do not want it trimmed so much that it immediately frays to nothing, but we do want it to be a lesser amount than our finished French seam width! The seam allowance is the amount of fabric that is between the edge of the fabric and the seam. French seams are best for straight edges. Sew the seam with a 1/4" seam allowance with the fabric wrong sides together. Remember, you may need to use a pressing cloth to prevent the fabric from scorching. Mine is a tad bouncy below! The only thing I'd add is a final pic of a finished piece, seeing how it would be worn or used in bedding, etc. Now, open up the fabric and press the seam open. This can be a pain when ironing, as you then often see the imprint of the seam on the right side of the garment. Until the seamstress (or tailor) is proficient with this procedure, using a French seam on curves (such as placing a sleeve into an armhole) should be avoided. your own Pins on Pinterest "Never heard of a French seam; now I know. ", http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/french-seam, http://howtosew.com/blog/q/what-seam-allowance, consider supporting our work with a contribution to wikiHow. [1] By using our site, you agree to our. If you really can’t stand to see another ad again, then please consider supporting our work with a contribution to wikiHow.