FRENCH SEAM. Take a look at your jeans, boardshorts and/or shirts – you will find that they have flat-felled seams! I will highlight the most commonly used basic seams used today, and when you should use them. By finishing your edges in a way to prevent fraying and looking unprofessional while preventing your garment from falling apart throughout the laundering process as well as general day to day wear and tear. Seam class-1: Super imposed seam. WHEN TO USE IT: Stable fabrics (fabrics that don not fray easily). Remembering that depending on which one you use will dictate the overall look and durability of your finished garment. First, you will need to create a plain seam by placing two pieces of material, right sides together, and stitching on the wrong side of the fabric, at the required seam allowance, usually 1.5cm or 5/8″, then open and press flat with an iron. You can either zig-zag both sides of the seam allowance and press the seam open, or you can zig-zag the two sides together, and press to one side (as with an overlocker/serger). So I’m going to keep this short and sweet. Seam class-4: Flat seam. WHEN TO USE IT: It is generally used on heavyweight fabrics such as jeans and on seams where extra strength is needed. French Seam. It is the easiest of seam finishes as it requires no sewing to finish the edge. HOW: You will need a pair of pinking shears to get started. With the other side, fold it inward in half  – the raw edge should meet the seam. With the right sides together, sew 1.5cm or 5/8″ from the raw edge. So if it is a garment or fabric that can get away with this then, why not use it? Learning to Sew for Beginners – Where to Start? Plain seam with a single stitch. � p�5>Ցc�w�]UQX:�1��t�O+G�V�'?A\]�u���rj(��(�u��l������Ո�X�T��V��˙�ٱ}Z���ki�&�z�O��F\�0E[�Y����A�z�|��s#�~5QEQEQEQEQEWq�.�#q It is also called a single needle Butterfly ... 2. Seam Finishes Page2 Clean-Finished Seams EquipmentNeeded: conventionalsewingmachine SuitableFabrics: verylight-tomedium-weight fabrics—sheers,voiles,silksandanyfabricwherea doublelayerwon’taddbulktotheseamline Thisisabeautifulfinish,especiallyonfinefabrics,that requiresnospecialequipment.It’ssuitableforthe insideofanunlinedjacketaswellasmostanygarment With right sides together, sew your seam and trim edges with pinking shears. For each side of the seam allowance, turn under  0.5cm or 1/4″ or less and press. Seam class-6: Edge neatening. WHEN TO USE IT: Sheer/lightweight/delicate fabrics. HOW: This is a really simple finish. Different Types of Seams and Their Uses on Garments. If there is a seam that you are having problems with or have heard of and need more clarification on it, please comment below, I am here to help. ?�i?�r�6ɑ��A��NUO��]r�s����և�t������Q���j+��ZVX̟+;mZ��G� Z����~�5R��ג/�j�ke�y���g��,����Y$�����=��qܖx C�I��j��WPMug��{��Z�(��(��(��(��(��(��(��)�H�H�*�r���Mr�����K����z��e*�XGPkWI���m:��=���� �r�P�>� WHEN TO USE IT: light to medium weight woven fabrics. Seams have raw edges which tend to ravel out. Very, very versatile, and I use it on everything unless a finish is not required (such as in a flat felled seam, french seam). You will find that the only time you do not need a seam finish is when and Item is fully enclosed such as a lined garment where the seam is not exposed or seen. Use any one of the following to finish of your seam, to prevent your fabric from fraying. Finishing off your seams is probably one of the most important parts of the sewing process. Something that may not be washed or worn a lot is best. With a serger. You’ll need an overlocker/serger machine to do this. 3. Fold this over top of the trimmed side of the seam, so that it completely covers it. Also – this one is seen from the outside of the garment and leaves a nice topstitched decorative finish. Sew 1cm or 3/8″ away from the folded edge and press again. trim seam allowance to .25cm or 1/8″ and press. =M2�X���Xnc$� 85B� ¶��. The zig-zag cut edge helps to prevent the fabric from fraying. Seam Finishes. Nothing too difficult here! Seam class-5: Decorative seam. There are two types of overlock seams – 3 thread and 4 thread. Therefore the raw edge of seams are finished by different methods like double stitching over cast stitching, herring bone stitch, hem stitching, zig-zag stitch and bound finish. WHEN TO USE IT: Many, many different fabrics and garments. So, depending on the garment, fabric and the resources you have available to which seam finish you end up using. This type of seam is just like a plain seam except there are two lines of … Binding (clean finish - usually 301) Binding (coverstitch - 602 or 605 ) Binding (Mock clean finish binding - 2 operations) Binding (Mock clean finish binding - 2 operations) Deco Stitching Elastic attaching - 3 or 4 needle 401 stitch Elastic attaching - 406 or 407 stitch - underwear Facing to front with Zipper Felling (Mock Felled Seam) Zig-Zag. With right sides together, sew your seam and press open. By simply cutting close to the edge with your pinking shears and pressing your seam. How to decide which seam is suitable for your sewing. How you finish your seams will decide on how long your garment will last as well as making the inside not lust look neat and tidy but can give it a finish that will last. A French seam completely encases the raw edge of the seam allowance, creating a clean and professional finish on a garment where the seam might be visible. ]�hm���欯�4�¾��lS��ʙ��I��{Q��4ۃ�mn��"��EQEQEQEQEQEQEQEm��t��ͻ� ��4��24n�YN56�t�W�N��y��k�i�uo͵�܄ �+.��W����p��G�����)yi�j7)Q���ȧ�Z��]���� Plain seam with double top stitch. Then, press the seam open and trim ONE side of the seam allowance back to .5cm or 1/4″. 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