I definitely recommend doing this along the front yoke seam, one of the sleeve seams, and when attaching the sleeves to the jacket. What Is A Mock Flat-Felled Seam? Stitch a plain seam with the right sides of the fabric together. If this is a concern, finish this edge after step #2. It isn’t enclosed like a flat-felled seam is, so the raw edges will need to be finished in some way – either with a serger / overlocker or by using a zigzag stitch on your regular sewing machine. If you have sewn a flat-felled seam before, usually the seam allowance needs to be wider. Fold the uncut side of the seam allowance over the cut one until it touches the line of stitches, and press it flat. Finish both seam allowances together with your chosen  method. it is very similar to the French Seam, but without the extra calculations required to figure the proper seam allowance. Add a row of  topstitching along the folded edge of the seam allowance. A mock flat felled seam is a faster and less bulkier version of the flat-felled seam. Here the edge is serged, but pinking or zig zag stitches work as well. A Flat Felled Seam is the strongest flat seam that also prevents fraying. Make sure the seam is flat on the right side before continuing. Flat fell seams are used to strengthen garments and are often seen on heavy weight fabrics such as denim and canvas. 6. I’m thinking that this technique might be easier to do with very curved seams as well? This seam is used mostly with thick fabrics and materials where seaming is not possible thoroughly. Does this matter? Step 1: Finishing Raw Edges. This site is no longer being updated so head over to Seamwork to get all the latest patterns, tutorials, video classes, and more. A Mock French Seam is exactly what it sounds like—it’s done a little differently than a French Seam, but the end result looks very similar. mock flat felled seams To sew a mock flat felled seam, simply finish the raw seam allowances with a serger, press to instructed side, and topstitch as directed. Sew the seam using the required seam allowance. 9) Mock Flat Fell Seam (Welt Seam ) Unlike the flat seam mentioned above, this seam will keep the raw edges open (on the wrong side) so it is easier to make than the Flat Felled Seam. Finish the seam of one edge. Here I use 5/8″ (1.6 cm). Does this make a perfect seam on the “right” side? The mock flat-lock seam as seen on the right side. It also won’t have any problem with 3/8″ (1 cm). Now take a look at your jeans. 4. And you don’t really need a wide seam allowance, even the 6 mm (1/4″) has some extra room on the sides. The simple reason for this is because in production sewing it’s faster to make a mock flat fell seam. Trim the unfinished seam down and then – after pressing into place! As you can see the seam allowance lies nice and flat. Your email address will not be published. I have a question about the mock flat felled seam… For the last step, where you tack the serged seam down, you sewed on the “wrong” side of the material. Press the Seam open with the seam allowance to one side. If your pattern uses 1/2″ (1.25 cm), that is good. Look at the inside and you’ll see that instead of a traditional flat fell, it’s most likely a mock flat fell. Provides a perfect clean look for reversible pieces or unlined garments. Required fields are marked *. I've got lessons, tips, and patterns for sewers of all skill levels. For a mock version, you would finish one edge of your seam allowance only, and sew the two pieces together. This simple tutorial shows you how to apply a mock flat fell finish to your own sewing. Stitch a plain seam with the right sides of the fabric together. Add one row of  topstitching along the folded edge of the seam allowance. Do you love sewing? Finish both seam allowances together with your chosen method. It also has the added benefit of making a seam that’s slightly less bulky, which is great for very heavy materials like denim. How do I sew a Mock Felled Seam? 1. It encases the raw edge in the same way that a French seam does, but the sewing technique is slightly different. The simple reason for this is because in production sewing it’s faster to make a mock flat fell seam. A welt seam is like a mock flat-felled seam. (An edge foot could also be used to create perfectly straight stitches.) From the right side it appears to be a regular flat fell seam. A mock flat-fell seam finish provides the visual appearance of a flat-felled seam without the bulk.