I am 74 and have just started making knives. Easy to get very consistently ground bevels and plunge lines - much easier than when you start learning how to use a belt grinder or free-hand filing. Remember - you can always remove metal if needed, but not put it back on the blade. Does not work on hardened blades/steel (the files usually have hardness around HRC 64 - 66 - that is too close to the hardness of the blade, so you would just dull the files without removing much material. Whether you are a serious power grinder working everyday on or the occasional hobbyist the Multi Guide Pro X has benefits to offer you that will provide a good return on investment. This type of bevel is often used for chef and kitchen knives. Clean the blade (remove scratches) up to about grit 240 (i.e. If you have left the knife too thick further up from the edge you will need the most … If it is too much than you may need to add some more support under it, or use less pressure. Ideally both short sides would have no teeth, as otherwise you will be grinding into the screw that is used as stop-pin. Once you have the design and in particular the grind (geometric cross section) on paper - start to work your way down and draw straight lines how you want to get there with the grinding jig. And I just ruined my second one. I made a cross slide guide for myself and was able to explore the increased benefits of this function in the bevel grinding process. Did you encounter similar difficulties? Due to the high production cost of my personal cross slide test unit I was not willing to offer it to the knife making public. After each step you want to remove the knife from the holder and measure the blade thickness at few positions (and different distances from the cutting edge) to see whether the grind follows what you have intended. I did have similar problems (with tip bending while filing). Knife Bevels. Hello,I have used a coarse double cut file (http://www.dick.de/en/files-and-rasps/products/precision-files) - the model 1112300, cut #1. Multi Guide Pro X Intro Video. This listing is for the Guide only. Thank you so much. I am going to attempt to make this. I want to make a Tonto blade with a 1/2"bevel grind on each side. The reason is as you grind higher up the blade you start to loose support area (once you switch to the other side). After HT the knife will be too hard to work with files. The Multi Guide Pro X effortlessly replaced my previous cross slide test unit. So it got 2cm shorter than planned. I am glad you find it helpful :) I am not posting too much on my YT but I may pull off a few videos this year as a part of some more technical articles. Then I put on a Tri-Zact 220 grit to finish the bevel for pre-heat treat. Takes about an hour per side on a 10 cm long outdoor knife blade. It minimizes the chance of micro-fractures during the quench and will also make your life easier finishing the blade after HT (since the blade will be much harder then). The Multi Guide Pro X expands on the class leading aspects of the design and pushes the grind capabilities even further ahead of the competition. When I first started knife making I saw tons of makers stating that they get 3-5 knives per belt. Thanks for watching and please in joy :) Should you have an access to a workshop equipped with some sort of belt grinder you could grind the teeth from the short sides away.Another possibility would be to get a large Dreadnought File. Faster than a free hand filing. The World's Easiest Grinding Jig for Knife Making - YouTube You should however also have a look at "Dreadnought" files - these have teeth ordered in curves and supposedly clog less while filing (you need to clean the file often while filing - with a steel brush). Great advice. This changed when I have accidentally came across the video from Aaron in which he describes in detail how to make a beveling jig using only very simple tools and materials - at that point I decided to give it a try - thank you Aaron! Thank you for your blog it has been a great help to me. Unlike flat bevels, a full-flat grind will not leave a bevel line. I learned about these files when I had the whole jig ready and did not pursue it further as I eventually got a small 1x30" belt grinder.I hope this helps :). I made a jig as per Aaron's about 6 years ago, it worked well for my first and only two knives. For available mounting options please contact me. The Multi Guide Pro X effortlessly replaced my previous cross slide test unit. In this video I will show you how to create a knife bevel guide. wow so many cool tips and ideas, thx for sharing ! If you have you edge at the final, pre-HT thickness and do not want to grind it down, than mark the edge with a permanent marker. You get one or two steps finer file (the Cut #1 would leave crazy deep scratches) - I am using Cut #2. Complete Online Guide to Knife Making. just sub to your YT channel : ). These are supposed to have less problems with clogging and will also have both short sides without teeth. For several years I have wanted to add a cross slide function but was not able to locate a suitable solution as an acceptable cost point. The Multi Guide Pro has carved out a place on the world stage as a class leading design and field proven top performer. I have been using DICK precision files: https://www.dick.de/en/files-and-rasps/products/precision-files type 'Hand' length 12" and Cut #1 They are top quality and will grind many blades. Some machine platen holders may required modification to allow the Multi Guide Pro X to fit over the belt. What grinder did you end up getting? I'll implement some of your wisdom for my third hopefully it will work out this time. As of this posting there is no similar guide world wide that has demonstrated in real world custom grinding the capabilities it has demonstrated. So proceed carefully. Thanks for watching and please in joy :) The blade will taper from the spine all the way to the edge of the blade. For me it meant that swapping the sides of the knife I had to re-mount the guiding rod to the other side of the file. The main difference between kitchen and outdoor knives: Longer AND thinner blade; Much more acute grind; A simple full flat grind will not make for a great kitchen knife - you want either a wide-bevel grind or a convex grind of some sorts; Kitchen knives have pronounced distal taper from the handle towards the tip. Once you are done with the grinding jig you move to free-hand grinding. The Mastersmith Pro bevel grinding jig is a unique system that allows knife makers to produce straight bevels. I made my first two knives using a jig copied from Aarons , about 5 years ago.A pal of mine has since me a belt grinder which has only been used fro trials on hollow grinds.My original jig was destroyed by white ants and I intend to make a knew one, so thanks for the suggested changes, I feel that for me the jig is easier particularly for the smaller knives. 60, 80, 120, 180, 240) before going for HT. Using it was more enjoyable due to the reduced weight, compact size, increased accuracy, and reduced production cost. When I started toying with the idea of knife making I was mostly put off by the fact that one needs a belt grinder (or so I thought at that time) to be able to grind the bevels and I had neither the workshop space, nor did I want to spend 1500€+ on one. This file cuts on 3 sides - on of the short sides is without teeth. To grind the convex grind will take some basic math to thin of in advance and calculate the angles (and thus the height setting of the bolt) to make. Once you get to kitchen knives you need to get more careful about the grinding angles (as these will be as low as 1°), Also - with those low grinding angles (and large contact area while grinding) the file will have a tendency to skate on the blade (it is NOT dull, do not have yourself fooled).